Ink-Stained Traveler

Shibuya

2009-08-21T18:09:00.000-07:00

I spent nearly the whole of my first day in Tokyo in Shibuya - - a mecca for teen & young adult shopping and one of the coolest neighborhoods in what is a gigantic city.

This is the Tokyo often seen in movies, where people crowd intersections, and lights are abundant and flashing from towering video screens. On each floor of Shibuya 109 - - THE place to shop - - sound comes at you from all angles; expect to hear at least three different albums competing for attention. MIA and Justin Timberlake are turned up to 11 in what can only be described as some sort of teenage cacophony of sound, fashion, and bored shouts of "Irashaimase!"

Despite great clothes (think T-shirts with nonsensical combinations of English words printed on them - I bought one that reads "Watch Out! Lucky Bug Fighter!") don't expect to find anything in your size unless your size is xxs (I never said I'd actually be able to wear said bug shirt).

After checking out each floor stop at the eighth for some fantastic sushi - you can even order tuna from the tank. (English menu available).

Be sure to visit the statue of Hachikō near the train station entrance - a cultural landmark dedicated to the memory of a loyal dog.

Humidity

2009-08-21T17:54:00.000-07:00

Japan in August is very hot and very humid. I immediately began to look like Monica Gellar in The One in Barbados.

Fortunately, there are vending machines everywhere with ice cold green tea, water, and beer. If you're feeling faint, or like you're about to melt, make it Suntory Time.

One Year Later

2009-08-21T17:49:00.001-07:00

It's been one year since our trip to Japan and England and I'm finally getting around to posting about our adventure!

James Bond Travel in Geek Monthly

2008-10-23T11:38:00.000-07:00

I'm very excited to announce that my article on "Operation: You Only Live Twice" in which Ryan and I walked in the footsteps of James Bond in Tokyo and London is in the November issue of Geek Monthly - - on newsstands now!

Galleries

2008-09-04T07:49:00.000-07:00

Still too busy and tired to write eloquently. So have made more galleries of Tokyo & Kyoto as well as an initial one of London.

Update

2008-08-24T15:24:00.001-07:00

To all my friends and family,

I've been meaning to do more updating of the Travel Blog, but there are so many sights, sounds, and smells that I want to capture with all the literary love that they deserve. I've also not wanted to spend precious time trying to do this when I could be out experiencing our amazing world.

So in the meantime I've made a gallery of photos in hopes of at least temporarily sation.

Japan is beautiful. Tokyo is hip and busy, and Kyoto, where we are now, is extraordinary and peaceful.

Today we adventure. Tonight we dine in traditional yukata on the river.

Irashaimasse!

2008-08-21T15:33:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Tokyo at least two hours late and then took a two hour bus ride from Narita to the Hyatt Regency Tokyo in Shinjuku on the Friendly Airport Limousine Service bus.

An eager trainee took us to our room and said rather nervously,

"Thank you for waiting . . . May I show the room's features?"

and then proceeded to show us everything in our room, from light switches to towels to the temperature control, all with a "Thank you for waiting . . ." and a "This is" or "May I?" We were a little confused (we have stayed in hotels before) and though we were very tired from 17 hours of travel he was so earnest that we endured the whole introductory session with generosity.

Japan Airlines

2008-08-21T15:18:00.000-07:00

After making TSA hand inspect nearly 40 rolls of film we made our way to the Sakura Lounge where we were greeted by attendants in pink skirt suits who bowed as we entered. They told us to make ourselves at home and then proceeded to escort us to a table in what was likely the most uncomfortably quiet room in the airport. The airplane experience, though, will certainly remain one of the greatest travel experiences of my life - - and has been my favorite flight so far.

On occasion, I am able to accompany Ryan on business trips and since on long trips he flies business/executive class we buy a coach ticket for me and then upgrade using credit card miles. I’ve been able to fly to both Australia and England using upgrades and it makes all the difference in attitude and health upon arrival in one’s destination. It’s essential for Ryan to travel this way, but for me it’s a luxury for which I am grateful. While United to Oz was a delight, especially when seated on the upper deck, and British Airways to London was of extreme comfort, particularly with their upgraded seats (literally Person Pods), Japan Airlines beats them both in service and style.

Upon boarding, passengers were greeted, welcomed, and thanked by no less than six people. I was initially a bit irritated that we weren’t given a pre-take off glass of champagne, but it was more than made up for. And considering all that was done for us, it’s probably best that the attendants were spared another task (and we were given champagne within 10 minutes after takeoff). One of the flight attendants personally greeted us, and everyone else in business class. The rest made the rounds with baskets filled with various in-flight necessities (of which photos will be posted later): a toothbrush, a “moisture mask” (basically, a face mask, of which several people wore while sleeping) an eye mask, and an “eye refresher.” Cozy sweatshirt jackets bearing the JAL Executive Class logo “Seasons” were distributed to those that wanted them. As soon as passengers sat down they removed their shoes and put on the available powder blue slippers.

Before we had left, my father had reminisced about how enchanted he was by the flight attendant safety routine (*as a feminist I continue to call them Attendants, but they are very clearly well-trained Stewardesses). He said he was so charmed that after each instruction the attendant would bow. They don’t do this anymore, instead we saw a very Japanese animated safety video. But best of all, there was a large video screen right in front of us that featured a birds’ eye view of our takeoff from a camera mounted on the front of the airplane. Take-off has always thrilled me, from 747s to my father-in-law’s Cessna. But this was something that was too cool to describe, and made all the more special by its unexpectedness.

After takeoff, we got our champagne and then the most beautiful menus I’ve ever seen. (The Japanese pay the most exquisite attention to detail, from the presentation of meals to the wrapping of presents.)

The attendants donned darling aprons--which are available for purchase.

Everything was perfect. From delicately prepared culinary delights, to excellent champagne and wine.

While I was sleeping, of one the attendants even left me a card.

She later came back with a guide book and gave several suggestions on where to go in Tokyo, including an amusement park onsen called Ooedo-Onsen-Monogatari. She was very impressed that I knew of this place and their famous "Dr. Fish" treatment and, she returned at least three more times to circle places I should see.

On Our Way

2008-08-16T13:59:00.000-07:00

After hugging our neighbors goodbye, we began our journey Monday morning, August 11th. It started with Ryan calling 764-HERO (which I'm thoroughly convinced is a brilliant placebo to curb incidents of road rage) to report a driver illegally using the carpool lane. But he made the call without using his hands free device, therefore making the telephone call itself, illegal. "No matter," says Hubby, "It has to be done. I'm a vigilante." I've since been calling him, The Road Warrior.

Eight hot hours from Seattle to Ashland, where upon our arrival we gratefully curled up in our air-conditioned room at the historic Ashland Springs Hotel. After showering, we decided that since the temperature had cooled, and it was a lovely evening, that we should dine outdoors at the hotel's restaurant, Larks.

While we were dining, 5 or 6 deer appeared and simply walked across Main Street at sunset (in the crosswalk no less). They were adults, adolescents, and toddlers - -completely unafraid, and as deer always are, totally majestic.

When we returned to our room, sweet Giles immediately cuddled up and sacked out.

The next day we arrived in Marin, where Giles will be staying with my Dad, his wife, Susan, and their dogs, Chloe and Agatha.

While in Marin, we had dinner at Sushiholic in Novato with our friends, Mariah & Jeff, who had spent a couple of months in Japan. Not only did they provide great conversation and company, but some wonderful ideas of things to see and do in Tokyo and Kyoto.

The night before we left, we had sushi again - - this time with Dad & Suze by the pool.

We drank Kissui Vodka - - a Japanese Vodka made with rice and Wokka Saki-- a combination of vodka and sake labeled "A fusion of two noble cultures." It's apparently favored by the Snow Monsters of Mt. Zao.

The Ink-Stained Traveler

2008-08-10T19:34:00.001-07:00

As we set out on an amazing adventure to Japan and England, I've launched a second blog, The Ink-Stained Traveler to record and share photography, sights, museums, markets, flavors, history, culture, popular culture, personal narrative, shopping, tips, details, and news.

To inaugurate the blog and the upcoming trip I've compiled some of the most beautiful photographs I've taken during previous travel. (Click on the link above and choose the "Slideshow" option for optimal viewing.) May they give you a sense of the awe and wonder I felt when I took them.

I hope readers will enjoy sharing our travels with us . . . stay tuned!